The 10 Best Watches of September 2024

September brought a thrilling wave of watch releases, offering something special for every enthusiast. Whether you’re into the technical brilliance of high-end complications or appreciate a well-designed everyday watch, this month’s lineup had it all. From timeless elegance to rugged tool watches, each release reflects the passion and craftsmanship that go into making these intricate timepieces.

For those drawn to heritage and tradition, the latest reimaginings of iconic designs will resonate deeply. If you’re after modern innovations or bold, eye-catching styles, this month’s releases showcase what makes watchmaking such a dynamic and evolving field. Every watch tells a story, and whether you’re an avid collector or someone searching for the perfect piece, these standout timepieces offer something for every personality and preference.

Let’s take a closer look at the 10 most exciting watches of September 2024.

1. Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Urushi GMT

Seiko once again captivated collectors with the release of its Presage Urushi GMT. The watch’s 42mm stainless steel case houses the 6R54 calibre, allowing simultaneous tracking of two time zones. It’s the first time Seiko’s Presage line features a GMT complication. The Urushi lacquer dial, created through a centuries-old Japanese technique, offers a distinct aesthetic that reflects Seiko’s cultural heritage. Each dial is unique, with the hand-painted lacquer producing subtle differences in texture and color.

The Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Dial SPB447

Why is it noteworthy?

This timepiece blends Seiko’s technical innovation with deep-rooted Japanese artistry. The Urushi lacquer dial, hand-applied by skilled artisans, makes each watch a one-of-a-kind masterpiece. Combined with the GMT function, it caters to travel needs and appreciation for craftsmanship.

In-house calibre 6R54

What we like:

  • The handcrafted Urushi lacquer dial offers unmatched depth and individuality.
  • The GMT complication provides practical functionality for travelers.

What we dislike:

  • The 72-hour power reserve, though solid, could be longer for frequent travelers.
  • The traditional design may not appeal to those seeking modern aesthetics.

2. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute

Jaeger-LeCoultre expands its Reverso Tribute collection with three exciting novelties this September. First, a brand-new mid-size model joins the lineup, offering dimensions that closely reflect the original 1931 Reverso design. This Monoface variant has a blue sunburst lacquer and a silver opaline dial, with a minimalist approach highlighting its Art Deco heritage. The Duoface version, now in luxurious 18k pink gold, offers a secondary dial for a second-time zone, while the Reverso Tribute Tourbillon makes its debut in a steel case, combining Jaeger-LeCoultre’s iconic design with the complexity of a tourbillon.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon in steel

Why is it noteworthy?

Introducing a mid-size model is a significant move for Jaeger-LeCoultre, catering to those seeking smaller, gender-neutral dimensions in an era where compact, vintage-inspired designs are gaining popularity. The new Duoface in pink gold adds a level of luxury, while the steel-cased Tourbillon brings haute horlogerie to a more understated level, making it a high-end daily wear option for those who appreciate functionality and elegance.

What we like:

  • The new mid-size Monoface feels like a modern return to the roots of the Reverso, perfectly channeling the 1931 design.
  • The pink gold Duoface offers a secondary dial and elegant finishing, making it versatile for any occasion.
  • The Reverso Tribute Tourbillon in steel combines technical mastery with a subtle design, perfect for those seeking a tourbillon without the flash of precious metals.

What we dislike:

  • The smaller case size of the mid-size Monoface might feel too diminutive for some modern wearers.
  • While luxurious, the pink gold Duoface has a hefty price tag, making it less accessible to many.
  • The Tourbillon’s technical complexity may not appeal to those who prefer simpler movements.

3. Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs PAM01518

The Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible is designed for adventurers. With a 47mm titanium case, this watch is built for rugged use. Its ceramic rotating bezel and 300-meter water resistance make it an ideal dive companion, while its P.9010 automatic movement delivers a solid 72-hour power reserve. Engravings on the case back honor the Navy SEALs, adding a unique connection to the military.

Why is it noteworthy?

This watch combines Panerai’s signature oversized aesthetic with professional-grade diving capabilities. The military-grade durability and connection to the Navy SEALs make it a standout for those who need function over form.

What we like:

  • The 300-meter water resistance makes it a robust option for professional divers.
  • Titanium keeps the watch lightweight despite its large size, enhancing comfort.

What we dislike:

  • The 47mm case may feel overwhelming on the wrist.
  • The military-focused design limits its versatility for formal occasions.

4. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon SORAI

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon SORAI

Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon SORAI blends cutting-edge horology with a strong conservation message. The 42mm micro-blasted black ceramic case houses a skeletonized tourbillon movement, while the bold camo-green strap adds a rugged edge. A portion of proceeds from each watch sold goes toward wildlife conservation efforts, aligning with Save Our Rhinos Africa and India (SORAI).

Why is it noteworthy?

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon SORAI

The skeletonized dial exposes the intricate tourbillon mechanism, showcasing Hublot’s expertise in avant-garde watchmaking. Additionally, the conservation partnership provides an ethical aspect to the timepiece, making it as meaningful as it is luxurious.

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon SORAI

What we like:

  • The exposed tourbillon creates a mesmerizing focal point for watch enthusiasts.
  • Supporting conservation efforts adds depth beyond its luxury status.

What we dislike:

  • The bold, avant-garde design may be too polarizing for some collectors.
  • Limited edition availability makes it challenging to acquire.

5. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT marries the iconic Royal Oak design with modern horological advancements. The 44mm titanium case houses a split-second chronograph and GMT complication, providing multiple functions within the octagonal bezel. The skeletonized dial maintains the futuristic aesthetic of the Concept line.

Why is it noteworthy?

The watch features a split-second chronograph that allows the timing of two separate events and the practicality of a GMT function. Its titanium construction ensures that it remains lightweight despite its technical complexity.

What we like:

  • The GMT and split-second chronograph offer great utility for those on the move.
  • The use of titanium keeps the large case light and comfortable for everyday wear.

What we dislike:

  • The octagonal case design may be too aggressive for those preferring classic shapes.
  • Its steep price makes it inaccessible to a wider audience.

6. Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Reinterpretation 300m

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Reinterpretation | Ref: SLA079J1 (black), SLA077J1 (white)

Seiko’s Prospex 1968 Diver’s Reinterpretation 300m draws inspiration from its classic dive watch but adds modern-day features. The 44mm stainless steel case offers 300-meter water resistance, and its unidirectional rotating bezel ensures reliable underwater performance. Inside, the 8L35 automatic movement provides precision and durability.

Why is it noteworthy?

This model pays tribute to Seiko’s history in diving watches while incorporating modern materials and performance upgrades. It balances heritage with innovation, making it ideal for professional divers and collectors alike.

What we like:

  • The 300-meter water resistance makes it reliable for serious diving.
  • The bold, legible dial and bezel enhance usability under harsh conditions.

What we dislike:

  • Its larger 44mm case may feel cumbersome for everyday wear.
  • The practical design might lack the refinement some collectors seek in high-end watches.

7. Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph Rainbow

Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph Rainbow

Louis Erard adds a burst of color to its chronograph collection with the 2300 Sport Chronograph Rainbow. Housed in a 44mm stainless steel case, the watch features rainbow-colored indices against a black dial. The dual-register chronograph runs on the reliable Valjoux/ETA 7750 automatic movement, ensuring durability and precision.

Why is it noteworthy?

The rainbow-colored indices bring a playful element to the otherwise classic chronograph design. Louis Erard has created a striking balance between the watch’s technical prowess and its bold, modern aesthetic.

What we like:

  • The vibrant rainbow indices add character without compromising on functionality.
  • The Valjoux/ETA 7750 movement guarantees accuracy and durability.

What we dislike:

  • The 44mm case size may be too large for some wearers.
  • The colorful design might not suit everyone’s taste, particularly those who prefer understated watches.

8. Blancpain Air Command Camouflage Green

Blancpain’s Air Command Camouflage Green is a vintage-inspired pilot’s watch with a modern twist. The 42.5mm case is fitted with a flyback chronograph for efficient timekeeping, while the camouflage-green dial adds a rugged, military-inspired look. The in-house F388B automatic movement delivers a high-frequency chronograph performance.

Why is it noteworthy?

Blancpain Air Command Camouflage Green

Blancpain blends its aviation heritage with modern chronograph technology, making this watch a collector’s item for those who appreciate vintage military design with contemporary functionality.

What we like:

  • The flyback chronograph enhances usability for frequent timers.
  • The camo-green dial and luminescent markers ensure legibility in any condition.

What we dislike:

  • The military styling may not appeal to those seeking a more versatile watch.
  • Limited availability can make it challenging to acquire.

9. Christopher Ward C65 Desk Diver Limited Edition

Christopher Ward C65 Desk Diver Limited Edition

Christopher Ward’s C65 Desk Diver takes a whimsical approach to the dive watch category, offering a playful design for office workers. The 41mm stainless steel case provides 200-meter water resistance, while the Sellita SW200-1 movement ensures reliable performance. Its playful Easter eggs on the dial and bezel add a humorous twist.

Why is it noteworthy?

The C65 Desk Diver is a lighthearted interpretation of the traditional dive watch, designed for the urban environment rather than deep-sea expeditions. It offers a unique blend of humor and practicality, making it a fun addition to any collection.

What we like:

  • The playful design adds personality while maintaining full dive watch functionality.
  • The 200-meter water resistance ensures that, despite its humor, it’s still capable underwater.

What we dislike:

  • Some may find the playful design elements detract from its seriousness as a tool watch.
  • The concept may not resonate with those who prefer traditional or minimalist designs.

10. TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green

TAG Heuer reinvigorates its legendary Monaco line with the Racing Green edition, paying homage to British racing history. The 39mm square case remains iconic, housing the dependable TAG Heuer Calibre 11 automatic movement, recognizable for its left-hand crown placement and chronograph functionality. The deep green dial is complemented by two chronograph subdials, adding visual depth and a sense of purpose to the design. This bold color choice is complemented by a matching green leather rally strap, making the watch a standout for those who appreciate heritage and style.

Why is it noteworthy?

The Monaco Racing Green brings a fresh, vibrant twist to one of TAG Heuer’s most iconic models. The British racing green dial offers a nod to motorsport history, adding a new dimension to the iconic square design celebrated for decades. With its rich color palette and excellent functionality, this model is a fitting tribute to TAG Heuer’s automotive partnerships and its heritage in precision timekeeping.

What we like:

  • The striking green dial offers a unique and modern update to the classic Monaco aesthetic.
  • The Calibre 11 movement ensures reliable chronograph performance, and a vintage-inspired left-hand crown adds a touch of nostalgia.

What we dislike:

  • The square case design may not appeal to everyone, especially those who prefer more traditional round shapes.
  • As a limited edition, the Racing Green may be hard to acquire, with high demand driving up prices for collectors.

The post The 10 Best Watches of September 2024 first appeared on Yanko Design.

From Orwellian Dystopia to Apple Watch Ultra: Apple’s Journey to watchOS 11 Public Beta

Once upon a Super Bowl Sunday in 1984, Apple unveiled an ad that changed the world. Directed by Ridley Scott, the commercial broke new ground in marketing and technology. As the heroine dashed through a drab, Orwellian world, hurling a hammer to shatter the oppressive image on the screen, viewers were left breathless. The message was clear: the Apple Macintosh was here to break the chains of conformity and ignite the flames of innovation. Forty years later, where is Apple now? The legacy of that revolutionary spirit lives on, not just in Apple’s computers, but right on our wrists.

Designer: Apple
Designer: Seiko

Fast-forward to today and the legacy of that revolutionary spirit lives on, not just in Apple’s computers but right on our wrists. Enter the Apple Watch Ultra, a device embodying the essence of forward-thinking technology. But before we dive into the modern marvel, let’s take a nostalgic trip back to another wrist-worn wonder from the same era: the Seiko UC-2000.

The Seiko UC-2000: A Wrist Revolution in 1984

In the same iconic year of 1984, Seiko wasn’t content with just making elegant timepieces. They dared to dream of a wristwatch that could do so much more. Introducing the Seiko UC-2000, a watch that doubled as a personal computer. This gadget had a rectangular LCD screen and a series of buttons and could be paired with a keyboard docking station to perform tasks that were nothing short of magical for its time.

Seiko UC-2000

Imagine programming in BASIC, storing contacts, and managing your schedule, all from a device strapped to your wrist. The UC-2000 was ahead of its time, a pioneering effort in wearable tech. Its design included distinctive orange buttons, adding to its unique appearance and functionality.

Seiko UC-2000 + Keyboard dock

Echoes of the Past in the Apple Watch Ultra

Now, let’s warp back to the present and unwrap the magic of the Apple Watch Ultra. Sleek, sophisticated, and packed with features, it’s everything the Seiko UC-2000 aimed to be and more. The Apple Watch Ultra sports a vibrant OLED display, sophisticated health monitoring tools, navigation aids, and seamless connectivity with the Apple ecosystem. It’s like having a mini-supercomputer on your wrist.

Apple Watch Ultra

But here’s the kicker: look closely at the design. Notice anything familiar? The Apple Watch Ultra features an orange ring and a striking orange button on the left. This design choice echoes the legacy of wearable tech pioneers like the Seiko UC-2000.

Source: oldcrap.org Seiko UC-2000

Even more striking is the resemblance in the link bracelet design. The Apple Link Bracelet closely mirrors the design of the Seiko UC-2000’s band, with its sleek, segmented links and metallic finish. Both bracelets emphasize a modern, streamlined look, showcasing how timeless design elements continue to influence new generations of technology. Four decades later, the spirit of those early innovations lives on, influencing and inspiring new generations of technology.

Source: oldcrap.org Seiko UC-2000

Link Bracelet for Apple Watch Ultra 49mm Metal Band

The shape of the watches themselves holds a remarkable resemblance. The Seiko UC-2000 and the Apple Watch Ultra feature a rectangular face with rounded edges, a design that enhances aesthetics and functionality. This shape provides a broad, clear display area while maintaining a comfortable fit on the wrist. The Apple Watch Ultra, with its rounded corners and sleek profile, seems like a modern interpretation of the Seiko UC-2000’s design ethos. This continuity in design highlights how certain principles of form and function remain relevant and influential across decades.

Apple Watch Ultra 2

Seiko UC-2000

Bridging Four Decades of Innovation

The journey from Apple’s iconic 1984 ad to the cutting-edge Apple Watch Ultra is a tale of relentless innovation. Apple’s commercial heralded a new era of computing. Similarly, the Seiko UC-2000 took a bold step into the future of wearable technology.

Source: Reddit

Today, as we glance at our Apple Watch Ultras, it’s fascinating to see how far we’ve come. From the pioneering days of the Seiko UC-2000, with its orange buttons and chunky design, to the sleek, multifunctional marvels on our wrists now, it’s clear that the spirit of innovation and rebellion against the ordinary has always been the driving force. From its early days to now, the Apple Watch has evolved into a market leader, becoming the number one selling watch in the world. It’s incredible to see how far we’ve come.

This journey of innovation is mirrored in Apple’s other groundbreaking products. From the revolutionary iPhone and iPad, which redefined how we communicate and consume media, to the Vision Pro, which promises to revolutionize augmented reality. The MacBook and iMac continue to set standards in computing performance and design, illustrating Apple’s dedication to pushing the boundaries of technology across all its product lines.

Apple WWDC 2024: A Theatrical Return to Roots

In 2024, Apple brought back the daring and eye-popping theatricality reminiscent of its 1984 ad. Senior Vice President of Software Engineering Craig Federighi kicked off the event at the Worldwide Developers Conference by parachuting down into the Apple headquarters. This dramatic entrance harkened back to Apple’s roots, showcasing its commitment to breaking the mold and captivating its audience.

watchOS Public Beta: New Features to Love

watchOS 11 Public Beta

Building on this legacy of innovation, Apple has released the public beta for watchOS 11, packed with features that promise to enhance the user experience significantly. The Vitals app offers users a comprehensive view of their overnight health metrics. By wearing your watch to sleep, you can monitor heart rate, respiratory rate, wrist temperature, blood oxygen levels, and sleep duration. The Vitals app helps establish a typical range for each metric, providing notifications if multiple metrics fall outside this range, with context on possible factors like medications or illness. While traveling in Japan, I became ill, and the Vitals app flagged my vitals as being out of range. It was helpful to see the metrics.

watchOS 11 Vitals

Training Load is another exciting feature, helping athletes see how workout intensity impacts their bodies over time. This tool lets users make informed decisions about their training schedules, especially when preparing for significant events. Enhanced GPS positioning for more workouts and custom workouts for pool swims are also noteworthy additions, providing users with more precise and personalized fitness tracking.

watchOS 11 Training Load

The Photos Face has been redesigned and powered by machine learning to curate the best images from your library for display on your watch. The Cycle Tracking app now includes features tailored for pregnancy, offering gestational age tracking and health recommendations.

watchOS 11 Photos Face

watchOS 11 Cycle Tracking

Smart Stack has become more intelligent, displaying widgets automatically based on time, location, and other factors. Live Activities are supported, and new widgets include severe weather alerts, Training Load, and Photos.

watchOS 11 Smart Stack

With the new Check-In feature, users can notify friends or loved ones when they arrive at a destination, providing peace of mind. Enhanced GPS positioning, custom pool swim workouts, and a new effort tracking metric for workouts round out the impressive list of new features in watchOS 11.

watchOS 11 Check In

Apple’s ability to captivate and innovate remains as strong as ever, from the bold declaration of the 1984 ad to the thrilling presentations of WWDC 2024. As a 50-year-old tech journalist covering technology for the last three decades, it’s been such a pleasure to have experienced each stage of innovation. I’m excited to see what Apple Intelligence has in store for us over the next few decades.

For those eager to explore the future of wearable technology, try the public beta. However, be cautious—once installed, you cannot roll back to the previous version without shipping the watch to Apple for service. For more detailed information on watchOS 11 features, visit the Apple watchOS 11 preview page.

The post From Orwellian Dystopia to Apple Watch Ultra: Apple’s Journey to watchOS 11 Public Beta first appeared on Yanko Design.

DIY kit lets you build your own Seiko watch movement from scratch… and it works!

The devices and gear we own today are vastly different from the ones our grandparents owned. Back in the day, products could be pulled apart, tinkered with, and repaired without much of a fuss. Radios lasted decades, toasters from that era still work today, but the devices of today are a little too complicated to repair or tinker with. In fact, the companies that make these devices don’t even want you looking under the hood – try tinkering with a Tesla car and the company can remotely disable your entire vehicle for tampering. Mess with an Apple phone and its warranty gets voided. If you bought a Spotify Car Thing, regardless of your efforts, the company is planning on bricking the device globally at the end of this year.

The reality is that we aren’t intimately familiar with the stuff we own today, and it’s time we changed that. The folks at Rotate Watches believe the only way to change this is to make tinkering more accessible. This beginner-friendly 50+ piece kit lets you build your own working, automatic watch movement from scratch. Modeled on the Seiko NH36, this kit has everything you need to be an amateur horologist. A guide helps take you through the various processes, and at the end, not only do you have a working watch that you can keep on your table to tell the date and time, but you also inherit an innate understanding of how timepieces work… and that’s just priceless, isn’t it?!

Designer: Rotate Watches

The Seiko NH36 is a popular and reliable automatic movement known for its accuracy and durability. With a diameter of 29.36mm and a height of 5.32mm, it’s a compact powerhouse featuring 24 jewels for reduced friction and a smooth operation. This kit includes the movement itself, along with a set of specialized tools to handle the delicate watch parts. Screwdrivers, tweezers, finger cots, and pliers are all included, ensuring you have everything you need to handle the intricate components.

One of the highlights of this kit is the beginner-friendly guide. Rotate, the company behind the kit, understands that watchmaking can be intimidating for newcomers. Their detailed instructions break down the disassembly and assembly process into clear steps, accompanied by numbered pictures for easy reference. The guide goes beyond just the mechanics, explaining the purpose of each piece and offering helpful tips and tricks throughout the process. For those who prefer a greater challenge, Rotate also offers the option to receive the movement disassembled. This allows experienced hobbyists to dive right into the reassembly process, testing their watchmaking skills.

The post DIY kit lets you build your own Seiko watch movement from scratch… and it works! first appeared on Yanko Design.