Ask any American watch nerd about space watches and you’ll hear one word within three seconds: Speedmaster. Moon landing, NASA certification, the whole legend. Meanwhile, eight years before Apollo 11, a Soviet pilot strapped on a standard-issue navigator’s watch and went around the planet first, and that story gets a fraction of the airtime. I love a Speedy as much as anyone. Still, the first human in orbit deserves a little more wrist love, and a Moscow designer just delivered some.
Alexey Yakushik’s Yuri Gagarin: First in Space is that delivery. His brand launched in 2025, and this is a big step up from its earlier releases on Vostok and Luch movements. The case is Grade 5 titanium, 45mm across (about 1.8 inches), with a domed sapphire crystal, a Miyota 8215 automatic sits under a custom module, and a rocket hand circles a blue Earth every hour. It collected two European Product Design Award wins this year. The run is 130 pieces, split between natural titanium and black PVD, at about $4,150 each, sold only through the brand’s Russian site.
Designer: Alexey Yakushik
A polished blue Earth sits dead center of the dial, and a rocket-shaped minute hand laps it once an hour. Minute numerals ring the globe like a launch-control readout. Hours sit lower down as bold Arabic numerals, with a red marker picking out the current one. Four plates on the diagonals spell СССР in Cyrillic, which is about as subtle as a Soviet space poster should be. For the record, Vostok 1 took roughly 89 minutes to orbit the planet and the rocket does it in 60, but I won’t be filing a complaint about the pacing.
The case and the integrated bracelet are both Grade 5 titanium, the alloy aerospace engineers love because it is strong, light, and unbothered by most of what life throws at it. At 45mm the case is large on paper, though titanium weighs far less than steel, and the brand hasn’t published the weight or thickness. The domed sapphire crystal is 35mm across and bulges up over the globe like a capsule window, which is the whole porthole idea in one piece of glass. Water resistance is 100 meters, the lume is BGW9, and the links look faceted and angular in the renders. Nobody is mistaking it for a dress watch.
Underneath sits the Miyota 8215, a 21-jewel Japanese automatic workhorse that keeps time reliably and stays out of the dial’s way, with the brand’s AYW001.1 module built on top. The renders show a custom rotor stamped with 1961, СССР, and 2026, the sort of detail only the owner will ever see. Yuri Alekseyevich Gagarin’s full name wraps the sapphire caseback window, and every watch carries its own number, such as 01/65. Hiding a love letter on the back of a watch is a wearer-only flex, and I’m here for it. Nobody across the table will ever read it, which is exactly the point.
Yakushik says the project has the blessing of Gagarin’s daughters, Galina and Elena, along with Roscosmos support. It launched April 16, 2026, timed to the flight’s 65th anniversary, and the first piece went to the Moscow Museum of Cosmonautics. The European Product Design Award is a paid-entry Farmani Group competition that covers concepts and finished products, so read the two wins as a nod to the design and leave the horological verdict to others. At about $4,150, the money goes to the titanium, the bracelet, the dome, and the custom display more than the base caliber. Gagarin carried a 33mm brass tool into orbit, and sixty-five years later his flight has a 45mm titanium watch of its own.
While smartwatches have become familiar wearables over the past few years, there’s still an audience out there for analog and digital watches. Character watches in particular appeal to fans of either the watch brand or the collaboration, or both. POP MART has a lineup of characters featured in plushies, blind boxes, pendants, and other collectibles. One of its signature characters is Molly, and if you’d like her on your wrist or your bag, this new collaboration between Casio and POP MART might earn a spot on your Christmas wish list.
The Casio BABY-G x Baby Molly BGD-10KPM-7 is a new collaboration between the two brands, featuring the baby version of Molly, Baby Molly. Aside from letting you wear her character artwork on your wrist, you can also turn this digital watch into a bag charm if that is more your fit of the day. The watch and the accessories that come with it are packed with playful character details that collectors and fans of cute things will appreciate.
Collaboration: Casio x POP MART
The Molly character was created by artist Kenny Wong back in 2006. Baby Molly shows her as a child, complete with blue eyes and chubby cheeks. With this watch, she’s heading off to kindergarten with her equally cute feline best friend, Baby Tabby. The white band depicts the pair on their way to school. The bezel is bright yellow to represent her hair, while activating the light reveals her signature bright blue eyes on the LCD. The LED itself is white; it’s the eyes that appear blue. The case back is engraved with the MOLLY 20th-anniversary logo, adding another detail for longtime fans to appreciate.
There’s also a small surprise tucked away beneath the band. Removing it reveals a graphic resembling Baby Molly’s kindergarten name tag. It’s a nice little detail for the owner to discover, especially since changing how you carry the watch brings it into view.
If you prefer having it as a bag accessory, all you have to do is remove the bezel and pass-through band, then place the center case into the pink custom holder. Both parts can be removed without tools. You can then attach it to your bag, purse, or belt loop, as long as you can access it when you want to know what time it is. The display still works in the holder, so the charm remains a functioning watch.
There are original stickers featuring Baby Molly and Baby Tabby that you can use to decorate the holder for the maximalist in you. Casio recommends keeping decorations off the watch itself and notes that stickers can peel or leave adhesive residue. It comes in special packaging featuring both characters, which gives collectors another piece of artwork to enjoy.
Aside from all these cute things, the watch is still BABY-G through and through. According to Casio, it is shock-resistant, has 10-bar water resistance, and offers approximately three years of battery life. It has all the usual digital watch functions, including world time across 29 time zones and 30 cities, a stopwatch, a countdown timer, five daily alarms, and LED illumination. The resin case measures 42.8 × 39 × 14.7 mm, and the watch weighs 33 grams. Mineral glass protects the display, and the supplied band fits wrists measuring 125–180 mm.
The watch-to-charm idea isn’t new to this collaboration. Casio introduced the original BGD-10K in May 2024, so the Baby Molly edition builds on an existing design. Here, the character artwork and eye reveal give that familiar setup its own personality.
Casio lists a November 2026 release in Japan at ¥16,500, including Japanese tax. U.S. pricing and availability aren’t specified in that listing, so American fans may need to wait for more information before making definite holiday shopping plans.
The appeal is having a collectible you can actually use, with a choice of where to wear it. A bag charm may take a little more effort to check than a wristwatch, but if your wrist is already occupied, Baby Molly still has somewhere to go.
Clocks have become so familiar that we barely think about what their hands are doing. They point to positions around a circle, a habit that Orbit keeps while removing the hands themselves. This ultra-minimalist clock concept replaces them with two magnetically held metal spheres, giving time a physical presence you can reach and remove, instead of leaving it behind protective glass.
The face is a dark circular disk with two concentric recessed tracks, each carrying a polished sphere. There’s no cluster of numerals or central pin to interrupt the surface. Instead, the grooves give the small bearings separate paths, while their reflective finish contrasts with the darker background. The clock’s relief supplies the detail that printed markings would normally provide on a conventional dial.
One sphere represents the hours and the other the minutes, preserving the basic logic of an analog clock. You still look for positions around the face, only without a pair of hands connecting those positions to the center. That makes the idea less unfamiliar than it initially sounds. Reading it doesn’t call for learning an entirely new code, although some adjustment seems inevitable.
Of course, removing all those markings comes with a compromise. Estimating the hour should be simpler than judging an exact minute on an unmarked circle. Orbit could suit a living room where a glance is enough to keep track of the afternoon. Checking how many minutes remain before catching a train might make you rather grateful for the numbers on your phone.
The more unusual part is that the spheres aren’t permanently trapped in their tracks. Magnetic attachment is intended to let you lift each one away and put it back, adding a tactile interaction to an object usually left alone. That’s a surprisingly playful detail for such a restrained design, especially when removing both markers would leave the clock with nothing to tell you.
There’s a sculptural quality to the body itself, with a rounded outer edge and circular channels that give the black surface depth. A rear keyhole slot provides for wall mounting, keeping that face upright without a separate stand. The name Orbit feels appropriate here, with two small spheres occupying rings around an empty center, rather than hands meeting at a shared pivot point.
Orbit remains a concept, so there’s no established price or availability to weigh against those compromises. Its detachable markers do suggest a rather different relationship with a wall clock, though. Reach for the face and you’re handling the things that tell the time. Just make sure those little spheres don’t end up somewhere less useful, such as behind the living room sofa.
The most frustrating moment for a sports watch to fail is when you need it most: halfway through a long route with no easy way to recharge, or standing over a golf shot on an unfamiliar course with no clear sense of the distance. Garmin’s Enduro 4 and Approach S72 tackle different versions of that problem. One is built to keep working deep into an adventure. The other puts more useful information within reach before and after every swing.
They make an interesting pair because neither treats design as decoration. The Enduro 4 favors battery life, low weight and quick access to maps. The Approach S72 gives golfers a brighter, more visual way to understand the course and their game. Both have premium materials and comfortable fabric bands, but their real appeal is how those choices serve the person wearing them.
Designer: Garmin
Garmin Enduro
For the Enduro 4, battery life is the headline. Garmin rates it for up to 320 hours in activity mode or up to 90 days in smartwatch mode, with solar charging under the conditions behind those estimates. That is a meaningful promise for someone planning an ultramarathon, a backpacking trip or several days away from an outlet. I would still treat those numbers as best-case figures, but the design priority is clear: spend less time managing the watch and more time moving.
Its 51mm case is substantial, yet Garmin says the watch weighs 66 grams. A titanium bezel and scratch-resistant Power Sapphire lens bring durability, while a fiber-reinforced polymer case helps keep the weight down. The 1.4-inch MIP display is less showy than a vivid AMOLED screen, but paired with the solar lens, it suits a watch built around endurance. The fabric band and white-and-red LED flashlight are thoughtful details for long days that may turn into nights.
The improvements are not limited to how long the watch lasts. Garmin says the Enduro 4 has 50% more RAM than the Enduro 3 and map panning that is 30% faster. Grade-adjusted pace tools offer a better way to judge effort on hills, while stamina features help athletes see how their endurance changes during training. Garmin Epic can group activities across multiple days. Together, those features address a familiar problem: plenty of data, but not always enough context to use it.
Garmin Approach S72
The Approach S72 takes the opposite visual approach. Available in 43mm and 47mm sizes, it has a bright AMOLED display, a titanium bezel, a sapphire lens and a lightweight ComfortFit fabric band. I like the choice of two sizes here. A golf watch needs enough screen space to make a hole legible at a glance, but it also has to feel comfortable through a round and look at home afterward.
Its most intriguing idea is connecting golf performance to what is happening with the player. The watch can show heart-rate trends alongside a completed round, while swing metrics include hand speed, backswing length and wrist rotation. On the driving range, golfers can log practice sessions rather than leaving that work outside their broader activity record. None of this guarantees a lower score, but it could make practice feel more purposeful than guessing which part of a swing went wrong.
The course tools are more immediate. Green reading uses contour data to help golfers judge a line on select courses, while aerial imagery provides a clearer look at the hole ahead. Post-round putting analytics can reveal tendencies in speed, direction and make rate. These are the features that could save a few uncertain decisions during play, then give someone a specific thing to work on afterward. Some require a Garmin Golf membership, a detail worth checking before buying.
Battery life matters here, too, though on a different scale. Garmin rates the 47mm S72 for up to 20 hours of golf activity or 16 days in smartwatch mode; the 43mm model is rated for up to 15 hours and 10 days, respectively. Add heart-rate, stress and sleep tracking, and it becomes easier to see why Garmin designed this as an everyday watch rather than a device you pull out only for tee time.
Neither watch is trying to do everything for everyone. The Enduro 4 makes the strongest case for people whose plans regularly outlast ordinary battery life; the S72 is for golfers who want clearer decisions and better feedback. What connects them is a useful design principle: the best sports technology should reduce the little uncertainties that distract you from the activity you came to enjoy.
There are plenty of watches that get called “panda” because of their black-and-white dials. Seiko decided to take that nickname a little more literally, creating the Power Design Project Panda Chronograph. The timepiece is a playful mechanical-looking chronograph that actually puts a panda’s face on the dial, which is quite fun, to be honest.
The idea first appeared as a concept at Seiko’s Incredibly Specialized Watch Exhibition in 2024. Designer Kiyotaka Sakai wondered what a chronograph would look like if the word “panda” wasn’t just a collector’s nickname. The production versions – HHK001P and HHK002P – stay remarkably close to that original thought. The watch is designed to make you smile, but it still has the proportions, finishing and functionality of a proper Seiko chronograph.
The first thing you notice is the face, where black subdials naturally become the panda’s eye patches, while a small nose and curved mouth sit below them. The two chronograph pushers rise above the case like ears, giving the watch an expression that is surprisingly easy to read. It sounds like a gimmick on paper, but the proportions make it work.
Seiko has carried the theme into details that are easier to miss. The dial has a radial texture intended to resemble panda fur, while the hour and minute hands take inspiration from bamboo leaves. The tachymeter scale around the edge gets a suitably playful name: “SASAMETER,” from sasa, the Japanese word for bamboo. It remains a functional tachymeter, with Seiko noting that it could theoretically measure a panda running at around 30 km/h.
The 43mm stainless-steel case is 14.6mm thick and uses hidden lugs, which help keep its footprint from feeling quite as large as those numbers suggest. The recessed crown sits between the ear-like pushers, while the caseback continues the joke with a rounded profile and a small three-dimensional tail.
Underneath, there is no complicated mechanical movement trying to compete with the design. Seiko uses its quartz Caliber 8T61, which provides hours, minutes, central chronograph seconds and a 60-minute counter with 1/5-second measurement. It is rated to an accuracy of ±15 seconds per month and offers 30-meter water resistance.
The watch comes on a cowhide leather strap with suede-like sections. This is a cute attempt to bring the panda theme into something you actually feel when wearing it. Out of the two versions, the HHK001P is the familiar black-and-white panda, limited to 3,000 pieces. The HHK002P swaps the usual colors for pink and gray, inspired by the appearance of newborn pandas, which are born with pink skin before developing their characteristic black-and-white fur. That version is limited to 2,000 pieces. Both watches are priced at $540 and are scheduled for release in November 2026.
Perpetual calendar chronographs are Patek Philippe’s version of a solar eclipse. They do not happen often, and when they do, everyone stops what they’re doing to look up. The last one arrived back in 2011, which in watch years is basically a geological era.
The wait is over, and Patek did not play it safe on the comeback. The new Ref. 5978P-010 is the first watch to combine the brand’s hand-wound chronograph movement with an instantaneous perpetual calendar, a mechanism usually reserved for its most serious grand complications, where every calendar display jumps simultaneously in under 30 milliseconds instead of dragging itself forward at midnight. It debuted at Patek’s seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan, limited to 120 platinum pieces at $337,585 each, with a navy dial, red chronograph hands, and calendar text printed in Italian for the occasion. Rare watch, rare city, apparently rare patience too.
Designer: Patek Philippe
The new caliber inside the 5978P-010 is called the CH 29-535 PS QI, a hand-wound movement built from 500 parts. Patek fused two things it already had, the CH 29-535 PS chronograph base from 2009 and the instantaneous calendar module developed for the R CHR 27 PS QI inside references like the 5207, 5308, and 5208. The result is a watch where the day, date, month, leap year, and day and night indicators do not creep forward through the night. Instead, they wait, then snap into their new position together in roughly 30 milliseconds. Even the chronograph’s 30-minute counter gets the same instantaneous treatment, jumping to its next position in one clean motion rather than crawling minute by minute.
Rather than letting a spring slowly push the calendar discs forward, the movement spends hours steadily storing tension, then releases it all at once like a drawn bow. A progressive perpetual calendar can leave a date disc caught mid-flip for a few minutes around midnight, which looks fine until you actually need to read it. This one simply will not do that. The caliber beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour on a Breguet balance spring, and because it is hand-wound, there is no rotor blocking the view, so the full chronograph architecture sits exposed through the sapphire caseback.
The 42mm (1.65 inch) platinum case measures 14.24mm (0.56 inch) thick, with a concave bezel and scalloped lugs lifted from the Calatrava-style cases of the 5208 and 5205, a departure from the ornate shapes Patek usually reserves for this complication. A single diamond sits at 6 o’clock, the hallmark Patek adds to every platinum watch in its catalog. The sunburst navy dial fades into a black-gradient rim around a textured center, with white gold faceted markers and dauphine hands finished in white luminescent coating. Red varnished hands carry the chronograph and small seconds, the only flash of color on the dial. Calendar apertures ring the top of the dial between 10 and 2 o’clock, with the moon phase sitting at 6 and the instantaneous 30-minute counter opposite it at 3.
Patek’s own marketing describes the 5978P-010 as a sporty look timepiece, which is a strange way to describe a platinum perpetual calendar chronograph until you look at it. The navy and red color scheme, paired with a composite strap finished in a fabric weave rather than alligator, borrows more from the Aquanaut than from anything in the formal grand complications catalog. It is not the first time Patek has let its sportier instincts bleed into serious territory. We covered the Cubitus back when it launched, a watch that took the Nautilus’s DNA and reshaped it into something squarer and more divisive. The 5978P-010 is a subtler version of that same impulse, applied to a complication that has spent 85 years dressed for black tie.
The calendar windows on the 5978P-010 are printed in Italian, so Saturday reads SAB instead of SAT, a detail that only makes sense once you know this watch was built for Milan. The strap repeats the gesture in miniature, with a stopping point stitched in the colors of the Italian flag just before the clasp. Patek built the watch for its seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition, which opened October 2 inside Milan’s CityOval and runs free through October 18. It is one of seven limited editions made for this stop on the tour, a group that also includes enamel-dialed World Time minute repeaters and three carbon-patterned Calatravas in the same tricolore palette. Altogether those seven references add up to 685 pieces, a genuinely small run by Patek’s standards.
There is a catch for anyone outside Italy who wants this watch: all seven Milan editions, including the 5978P-010, sell exclusively through Patek retailers inside the country. Buyers elsewhere wait for one to surface at auction, where past exhibition pieces have historically carried a premium over retail. At $337,585, this was never going to be an impulse buy, and the exclusivity only adds to that. What sticks with me is not the price, it is the choice to dress the brand’s most formal complication pairing in a strap that would not look out of place on a dive watch. Eighty five years after the 1518 started this lineage in stern black and gold, Patek just sent its most serious watch out wearing red sneakers, and somehow it works.
A yellow wristwatch is not that uncommon, especially for brands that love playing around with bright colors. But to see a watch that pays tribute to bananas? Now that’s something you don’t see every day. Bananas aren’t my favorite fruit, but I know a lot of people who love them and the color most closely associated with them. This latest collaboration between G-SHOCK and BAIT will appeal to that particular crowd.
The BAIT x G-SHOCK DW5600 “Yamagata’s Finest” turns the watch brand’s familiar square digital watch into a ripe banana on your wrist. Not only is its resin case yellow, but the design also carries the brown “freckles” that appear when a banana is ripe for eating. BAIT has built a whole world around this unusual watch, too, which collectors might enjoy as much as the watch itself.
The ripe-banana motif connects to what a watch is supposed to do. Both the brown freckles and the watch tell you, in their own ways, “It’s time.” Sure, it’s a visual joke, but it’s also a fun way to make a watch that can start a conversation with someone wondering why you’re wearing a banana on your wrist. The name is a tribute to Japan’s Yamagata Prefecture, which is associated with G-SHOCK production and, perhaps more surprisingly, greenhouse-grown bananas. That local connection gives the design a story beyond its bright color.
And it’s not just a plain banana-yellow watch. Aside from the freckles, there are brown accents around the bezel and on the strap, including a darkened strap tip that resembles the end of a banana. BAIT even created a banana mascot named “Shawty with Freckles” and engraved it on the stainless-steel caseback. You’ll also see the mascot when you activate the electroluminescent backlight. The packaging keeps with the theme: the watch comes in a yellow tin labeled “BAIT Farms Non-GMO.” It’s a playful detail, not a claim about the watch’s materials.
Beneath all that personality, this is still a practical DW5600. The watch measures about 42.8 mm across and 13.4 mm thick, with a resin case and strap. It offers 200-meter water resistance, along with a stopwatch, countdown timer, alarm, calendar, and backlight. Those familiar features mean the banana theme doesn’t come at the expense of everyday usefulness. You can check the time at a glance, time an activity, or set an alarm, then get on with your day. It’s a novelty in appearance, but it doesn’t have to be treated like one when you wear it.
That balance is probably the biggest benefit for anyone considering it. Some statement accessories look great but don’t do much else; this one adds a sense of humor to a watch with useful functions. The yellow color makes it easy to spot in an outfit, while the smaller details give people something to notice up close. It could be a fun choice for someone who already likes G-SHOCK’s square shape but wants a version that feels less ordinary. And for a banana enthusiast, the mascot and tin make the whole package feel more like a gift than a standard watch purchase.
The limited-edition watch was priced at $170 and launched through BAIT stores and BAITMe.com at the end of September 2026. Availability may vary now, so anyone hoping to pick one up should check current listings rather than assume it is still in stock. For collectors, the themed packaging may be part of the appeal; for everyone else, the main question is whether the joke makes them smile enough to wear it regularly.
I don’t have to love bananas to appreciate how thoroughly BAIT and G-SHOCK committed to the idea. The freckles, darkened tip, mascot, backlight, and tin all work together, while the familiar DW5600 keeps the watch useful. It won’t suit anyone looking for a subtle accessory. But if you like your everyday gear with a little personality, “Yamagata’s Finest” has arrived at just the right time.
I know you will relate to one of these telltale moments. A meeting ends, someone gives you three useful details, and by the time you reach your desk, only one remains. The same thing happens after an interview, a doctor’s appointment, a lecture, or when someone rattles off directions while you’re already trying to keep up. We like to think we remember conversations better than we actually do.
Mobvoi’s TicNote Watch is designed to cover that very human failure. Instead of asking you to open an app, find a recorder, or reach for your phone, it gives the watch a dedicated physical recording button. Press and hold it to start recording. The recording can happen without a phone and even works offline. To me, the idea seems pretty interesting for capturing my team’s briefing.
Most smartwatches are defined by everything they can do. Notifications, workouts, calls, apps, payments, music, health tracking – the list keeps getting longer. TicNote Watch is different though, as its most important interaction is deliberately narrow. Just press a button and remember what just happened. That makes the hardware control more interesting than it might initially seem. There is something satisfying about a product that behaves more like a lighter, a film camera’s shutter, or a staple gun than another miniature touchscreen computer. The action is physical and doesn’t require you to navigate an interface while somebody is still talking.
In a world where dedicated controls have increasingly disappeared behind glass, putting one back on the wrist becomes a design statement. This smartwatch isn’t trying to make every interaction smarter; rather, it aims to make one interaction nearly impossible to mess up. The double-press gesture adds a smaller version of the same idea, letting users capture a quick thought of up to 60 seconds.
Simple input, surprisingly busy output
What happens after the button press is where the AI kicks in. TicNote Watch can transcribe conversations on the wrist, with live text supporting 17 languages, and users can tap to highlight important statements while a conversation is happening. Once the recording ends, the system can generate an AI summary and mind map. The intended audience for the wearable can be a journalist leaving an interview, a recruiter moving between candidates, a consultant bouncing between meetings, or a graduate student sitting through a campus lecture. For someone spending much of the day listening rather than typing, removing the act of note-taking can be genuinely useful.
There is, however, an obvious social wrinkle. A recorder that lives on your wrist is easy to reach for, but that doesn’t mean everyone around you will be comfortable being recorded. Consent and workplace etiquette matter, particularly in meetings or shared spaces. Mobvoi also claims more than 24 hours of continuous recording and up to 200 hours of local storage, so this isn’t unlimited memory in literal terms. At $249, with a limited-time introductory price of $199, TicNote Watch isn’t really competing on how many smartwatch features it can squeeze onto your wrist. It is built around a premise that doesn’t try to replace your phone, your notebook, and your entire day.
Design Mindset, Yanko Design’s weekly podcast, premieres every week with a new guest and a single animating question: what does it actually take to think differently about a design problem. The show is 23 episodes in, and this episode turns its attention to fine watchmaking via someone who arrived in the industry with no allegiance to its conventions. If a mechanical watch didn’t exist today, and a designer received the brief cold, would they give it hands, a crown, a flat dial? That question opens the conversation and also describes exactly what our guest spent 16 years answering in practice. The result is Ressence, a brand whose watches look like nothing else on the wrist.
Benoît Mintiens is a Belgian industrial designer who, before he ever touched a watch, designed high-speed trains, aircraft cabins, medical devices, leather goods, and even hunting guns. He founded Ressence in 2010, the name a contraction of Renaissance of the Essentials. The Type Three BB2 won the 2024 Red Dot Award Best of Best, and 2026 brought the same recognition to the TMN. His watches are designed in Antwerp, made in Switzerland, produced in limited editions each year, and worn by people who believe the future is brighter than the past. He is a designer who walked into one of the world’s most convention-bound industries and simply refused to accept what he found there.
Designing from the User Outward
When people ask Benoît how he designs a watch, the answer he gives is never the one they expect, because he starts with the relation between the user and the watch rather than with the movement itself. “Usually I start not with the watch. I start with the relation between you and the watch, and that is, I think, a very important step that very often is forgotten.” Most brands were created by watchmakers who always build from the inside out, from the movement to the wearer. As a designer, Benoît works in the opposite direction, from the user inward to the movement. That physical 180-degree reversal of process changes everything about what a watch ends up looking and feeling like.
Designing the relationship is, in Benoît’s view, fundamentally an ergonomic exercise, rooted in a deep study of physiology and how people interact with objects. The ultimate measure of success is disappearance: “The best product is the one you forget when you use it. Invisible. I’m using it, but I’m not even aware of it.” He tells customers who buy a Ressence that he hopes they forget quickly that they are wearing it, and that forgetting is the proof the design worked. In the rapid-fire round, he completes the sentence “the future belongs to designers who stop asking how to make things and start asking” with five words: “How do you want to feel.” That question is where every Ressence begins.
Challenging Industry Conventions
Until the quartz crisis of the 1970s, watchmaking was about precision, quality, and reliability. When quartz movements arrived at a fraction of the cost of mechanical ones, the industry had to reinvent itself to survive. “Watchmaking has found a way to survive by adding this emotional layer on top of their brands, on top of their physical products. It’s not so much about the physical product anymore. And that’s a pity, I think, as a designer.” Any product, Benoît argues, needs to pass through the survival-of-the-fittest logic of natural evolution to reach the next generation. Watchmaking’s functional evolution largely stopped at the quartz crossroads, and Ressence is attempting to pick it up from there.
A product is defined by multiple dimensions: aesthetics, ergonomics, technique, social context, and production. In watchmaking, only the aesthetic dimension has shifted from brand to brand, and the underlying system architecture has been frozen for two hundred years. Ressence repositions every dimension at once. “The way we show the time, the ergonomics, is actually what defines the aesthetics. Is actually the way we make them. Is actually the technique that lies behind. All these things are intertwined, and they all together create what I call this new paradigm.” The whole has to be logical and coherent, or as Benoît puts it, you end up with a Frankenstein.
The Human Connection to Mechanical Objects
Asked why people still choose to wear mechanical watches when a phone tells time more accurately and without winding, Benoît offers a concept he has been developing for years. “I call it the empathy for gears. We have, as humans, we have empathy for gears.” He builds toward the idea through a Titanic thought experiment: a survivor on floating debris must choose which of two strangers in the water to save, the one he spoke with during the voyage, or the one whose language he could never understand. “As a human, you pick the one you have a relation with.” Products operate by the same logic, and we form bonds most naturally with what we can understand and relate to.
A circuit board is opaque; the workings of a mechanical watch are graspable, even to someone with no technical knowledge. “That is the magic of mechanical watches, is that we feel close to them. Let’s not forget, they tick, they make a sound. They need care. You need to wind them. All these elements will generate a bond between you and the product. And that is why I’m a strong believer in mechanical watches.” Each quality that makes a mechanical watch demanding, the winding, the servicing, the ticking, deepens the relationship between wearer and object. That depth of feeling, Benoît argues, is a human need, and it deserves to be designed for.
Ressence’s Innovations and Design Philosophy
Ressence positions itself as a high-end brand, with Benoît drawing a specific distinction between high-end and luxury. Luxury is decorative and emotional, selling prestige and story; high-end means technically and functionally sophisticated, in service of the person using it. “We would believe that a product gets its relevance, its reason of existence, through the way or the quality the product is executing its function.” The most visible outcome of that philosophy is the Ressence Orbital Convex System, or ROCS, which replaces traditional hands with rotating discs requiring approximately 200 components where a standard watch uses four. The design brief Benoît imposed on himself back in 2008, years before the brand existed, made the mandate clear from the start: “Ressence needs to be original, but not marginal.”
The oil-filled dial, defining models from the Type 3 to the Type 7, has an origin in personal memory. Benoît traces it to childhood Mediterranean sailing trips, navigating overnight to Corsica guided only by an oil-filled ship’s compass in the days before GPS. “This image of the compass, an oil-filled system with inside a mechanical thing that turns around, showing the north. I’m pretty sure this has been the thing that has burned in my brains, and I believe the idea of the Type Three must have come from there.” Oil inside the Type 5 diver eliminates refractions between oil, sapphire, water, and dive mask, delivering a clear dial at any depth. The functional improvement is exactly the point: a diver watch you can actually read underwater.
Production, Materials, and the Future
Getting enough watches from suppliers is, after 16 years of operation, still the hardest thing Ressence faces as an organization. A single watch contains around 400 custom-made parts at extreme precision tolerances, and the Ressence dial is curved in three dimensions where almost every other watch is flat, requiring five-axis machining. Some parts pass through twelve different specialized companies before reaching a watchmaker’s desk. “If today I need more watches and I order them, I will only have them in between nine months and two years. There is no industry like that.” Those lead times explain the prices, the waiting, and the limited annual runs; the scarcity is structural, a consequence of producing something this technically complex as an independent brand.
Benoît is clear-eyed about products and unhurried about brand moving forward. Ressence has a product plan mapped for the next eight years, but brand recognition is the harder work and cannot be forced. “Stick to your vision, and move on and be coherent. I think that’s the central thing.” The reference brands held up as aspirational in watchmaking took fifty years to reach that position, and it was a consequence of what they did, not something they actively pursued. On materials, Benoît describes a fascination with mammoth ivory recovered from Siberia, finding its structure “very, very, very beautiful.” Ressence can be found at ressencewatches.com, on Instagram, and in Antwerp, where visitors are always welcome.
Have you noticed tilting always makes things ‘ergonomic’? A laptop stand tilts the keyboard towards you – ergonomic. A vertical mouse tilts your hands into a more natural position – ergonomic. A split keyboard often breaks and tilts the layout in two different directions for your hands – very ergonomic. It’s almost stupidly simple that the human body isn’t designed around perfect right angles. We’re filled with curves, joints, and limitations to how we move – so a simple tilt can often make life a lot easier. The Apple Watch apparently just got the memo.
Designed around a very clever 30° tilt, this Tilted Watch Band puts the Apple Watch at a slight slant, so it’s facing you even when your wrist isn’t. Normal protocol is to lift your wrist up perfectly horizontal, so the screen faces you in the right orientation. Tilt the band and you don’t have to make your wrist horizontal anymore – just hold it at a comfortable angle and the Watch screen faces you a lot more naturally, letting you read the time without flexing your hand or your neck too much… perfect for joggers or bikers who don’t have the luxury to orient their hands while mid-activity.
As ergonomically obsessed as Apple is, I’m surprised nobody from Cupertino thought of building a band like this. Does it mess with the symmetry? Absolutely. Could Apple still elegantly work around it? I have no doubt they could. They did such a brilliant job with the iPhone Duo’s folding animation, a tilted screen feels like child’s play.
The band comes in a variety of colors, although the best thing you could do is buy a bunch of them and mix and match pairs to create a dual-tone design. The silicone construction makes the band perfect for any kinds of sports, or for people with hypoallergenic requirements. One caveat, however, is that this watch’s tilt makes it so that it only works on the left hand. The clockwise tilt means if you wore the watch on the right hand, the tilt would work against you, requiring you to crane your neck even further than you originally would. Also, the crown would press into your forearm a lot more, which isn’t particularly fun considering you’d have to deal with constantly awakening Siri every few minutes.
The solution, however, is elegantly simple, and works better for smartwatches than it does for watches. You see, reading an analog watch at any tilt or angle is fairly easy – reading a notification on a screen while it’s tilted can be a chore. That specific detail makes the Tilted Watch Band pretty useful, as it reduces the strain on your wrist and neck while you glance down at your wearable.
The Tilted Watch Band is available online through retailers like Amazon, and works with all Watch series and sizes, even with the Ultra. So you can buy and keep the band even through all your watch upgrades over the years!
